With our article “Installing a Rear Wing/Spoiler Thin Lip” we showed you how you can easily install the famous rip lip to the rear of a vehicle. With the following article we would like to show you how such a spoiler lip, like the standard rear spoiler from the BMW M range, Removal Could you. In principle, our instructions can also be used for other components that are glued to the car, such as trenches on the front apron, headlight housings, fake fender gills or a roof spoiler. Because a simple but powerful tool is always used to install these components Sticky tape (eg from 3M or Tesa). However, if the components are additionally tightened, then of course you should take into account that there may be holes in the body afterwards. It should also be borne in mind that instead of using masking tape, the components are covered with a lid body glue can be attached. In principle, it is also possible to disassemble here, but the voltage can be significantly increased.
Removal of spoiled lip, canards & co
In any case, removal should be carried out only at summer temperatures (if possible, about 20 degrees). Both the bodywork adhesive and the masking tape become noticeably more flexible, and the removal process is easier to implement. If the solar radiation is insufficient (eg in winter), then a heat gunsimple one Hair Dryer or one red light lamp used as an auxiliary agent. When using the hot air dryer, please check the temperature (Maximum 80 to 100 degrees and sufficient distance) credit. In addition, everything related to the component must be masking bar Masking (adhesive tape) must be done to prevent damage to the vehicle/paint.
The procedure is as follows:
- The component to be removed and the surrounding body parts clean/dry
- Paint around the component to be removed masking bar mask off
- The first 10 to 20 cm carefully the heat (Hair dryer, red light lamp etc.)
- Now with one plastic spoon (or something similar) between the component and the body
- Move the spoon slowly through the glue/tape Pay
– as precisely as possible between the masking tape / masking tape and the component (Then don’t touch the paint)
– You can also substitute for spoon Dental floss / fishing floss Uses (Back and forth)
– one too plastic card Rounded edges may be suitable
– Moreover plumb wire (Not welding wire) conceivable
- Gradually heat the component in order to loosen it completely using the above tools
- Adhesive residue can often be removed easily with your fingers
– Instead of that foil eraser (Eraser disc, decorative tape eraser(with cordless screwdriver/drill)Approach carefully and with a little pressure and speed)
– Alternatively can also with Label/Adhesive Remover & Residue Remover for work (First check for compatibility in an inconspicuous area and follow the manufacturer’s instructions)
- position with paint coating Clean and if necessary wax and seal
information: In principle, the above process can also be used for components that body glue attached. At least the unwanted component should be able to separate it. However, removing any residue from the bodywork adhesive is more difficult. Depending on the age and type of adhesive, removal may only be possible with paint damage and then the component must be recoated.
remove character model
By the way, the procedure for removing the emblems of different models of the car is almost identical. We explain exactly how this works in our article “Removing car lettering/manufacturer label? Our guide!”.
Do you want to remove the bezels of the headlights?
Here, too, the process can be compared to removing the spoiler edge or typical lettering on the back. If the car headlights were made of glass (in older cars), after removing the edges of the headlights with fishing line or window cutting line, you can remove the adhesive residue relatively easily with turpentine, brake cleaner or nail polish remover. However, if the headlights are made of plastic, as is the case with almost all modern vehicles, you must use solvents. Very cautious Work so that the headlights do not become blind and therefore permanently damaged. The same applies to working with a hot air gun.
The following note is necessary: For safety reasons, tuningblog recommends all repair, inspection and maintenance work exclusive In a specialized workshop! Although our information is summarized to the best of our knowledge and belief, we cannot take any responsibility for the content. So all information is “without warranty”.
Of course that was far from that!
In this Tuning Blog category are guides and instructions for common vehicle defects/repairs and for mounting accessories/tuning parts. Our articles explain in a simple way common defects and their corresponding fixes, as well as how the first signs of a defect become noticeable. In most cases, we also have preliminary guides for repair instructions in our repair instructions approximate Included costs. Our goalAuto Repair Manual“It is to create a knowledge launch for the next visit to the workshop with the initial tips. This may save you from tedious troubleshooting and you may be able to do little things on your own. The same, of course, applies to the installation of accessories / tuning of parts. Here too, we would like to help with implementation from During the how-tos and tips.There are many other posts about this as well.Next is an excerpt from the last and here are all the previous instructables.