Unlike disc brakes, drum brakes brake the car using the so-called brake shoe against the inside Pressing by a metal cylinder located on the axles of the wheels. Like all other braking systems, drum brakes are also subject to normal wear and tear due to friction when operating. If you want to maintain and replace drum brakes, you must first find the used brake Removal. This is relatively easy and only takes about 30 minutes by conventional drive. Of course, the wheel should come off first: remove it according to the instructions (Loosen the wheel nuts before lifting the car).
distance Loosen the adjusting screw I disassemble the brake shoe and look for it access hole outside the cylinder. Rotate the drum unit to the bore At the level of the adjusting screw Located. You can recognize the screw by its large size and hole. It is located directly under the central axle on the rear of the cylinder. Turn the adjusting screw completely counterclockwise. It should now be possible to detach the brake pads from the wheel so that the drum can also be pulled off the wheel. If the cylinder cannot be separated, it should be Crooked and wrecked will.
If necessary, completely loosen the brake cylinder! Use a screwdriver to remove the screws that secure the brake cylinder to the wheel and pull it out strong Towards you If the brake drum is difficult to remove, you can try to loosen it using a screwdriver and a rubber mallet or brake drum puller. If this attempt fails and is not immediately successful, use a screwdriver and a rubber mallet. A screwdriver is pushed under the cylinder flange. Gently tap the handle of the screwdriver or brake cylinder with a rubber mallet. Don’t use too much force, you just want to separate the roller from the bracket without damaging it.
Alternatively, the brake drum can also be equipped with a coil brake cylinder puller Weight loss. Place the three hooks of the brake drum puller evenly on the lip. The brake cylinder puller screw should be above the center of the wheel hub. Use a screwdriver to tighten the brake cylinder puller screw. The screw is screwed in until the brake cylinder puller fits snugly against the cylinder. Make sure to screw Not too tight attracted. Hit the rear of the brake cylinder with a hammer to loosen it from the wheel hub.
Since dirt settles in your drum brakes over time, you should take the opportunity to clean it up if necessary. A special brake cleaner acts as a cleaning agent, but soapy water works as well. Then replace those brake shoesBecause these are like brake pads on disc brakes wear, wear. Check the manufacturer’s technical specifications. If your brake shoe is already less than the limit They are gone, new people must come. Use pliers to remove the return spring from the brake pads. Use the brake spring tool to remove the bolts and springs. It should now be possible to loosen some brake shoes. Otherwise, use a screwdriver to remove the brake cable.
Check if there is a leak in the hydraulic cylinder.
Most drum brakes are hydraulically actuated. If there is a leak in the hydraulic system, then there is a buildup of fluid in the cylinder and on the brake pads. In most cases, braking performance also deteriorates. If necessary, replace the faulty hydraulic cylinder at the same time. Remove the brake line from the cylinder and then loosen the screws on the back of the cylinder. after you new cylinder When you insert it, you can install it and connect the cables again. Then everything is screwed together.
Make sure the brake lines are not damaged.
If the car rolls to one side when braking, but the brakes are fine, there is probably a coil Brake line leak. To replace damaged brake lines, the old brake lines at their joints must first be removed. Put a cap on the lines to prevent brake fluid from leaking. Cut a new brake line to size and connect it to the old line with copper connectors or connect it directly to the terminals of the old line. to me Brake system maintenance Includes compensation for brake fluid loss and brake system bleeding. On that occasion, they can also wheel bearing Clean them and re-lubricate the balls. To do this, the axle must first be disassembled. To do this, remove the hub assembly races (Which unfortunately is often damaged in the process) before removing the bearings. To clean, place the balls in a gasoline container. Shake the container and clean the bearings with water. Then lubricate the bearings well by hand or with a bearing lubricant.
Then reinstall the brake drum. After service, carefully reassemble the bike and install the brake cylinder by reversing the previous steps. Once the wheel cylinder is back in place, check if it is firmly seated. Press the brake sole onto the backplate and reattach the springs, preferably tongs. Before reinstalling the regulator, clean its threads with a lubricant. Finally, turn the cylinder back on and turn the wheel back on. If the brake drum cannot be removed using these methods, contact a specialized workshop.
Brief information about drum brakes in cars:
- Drum brakes are an alternative to disc brakes, especially on the rear axle
- “Combustion engines” are only occasionally installed on the rear axle in the small car segment
- Drum brakes are common on all-electric vehicles (VW ID.3)
- Brake shoe linings are wear parts
- Due to frequent trips over short distances, moving parts may wear out and the drum brakes may not operate properly
- Hard or jammed drum brakes can also be caused by using the handbrake for too long (especially in wet and humid weather)
- are symptoms/signs of a defect
Brake fluid leakage stains (yellow for DOT 4 or blue for DOT 5)
Squeaking noise from the brake drum area (when braking or while driving)
– Metal Noise
The wheels on the axle are rigid or clogged
- Check caliper condition:
– Raise the car, turn the individual wheels and check the strength of the resistance
- Driving with stuck/damaged drum brakes should be avoided refrain Otherwise, further damage to the brake cylinder may occur and the brake cylinder may malfunction or cause a vehicle fire
- Failure to pass the main inspection with stuck/damaged drum brakes (major safety defect)
- Toggle / change – brake cylinder
– Disassemble the wheel bearing
– Only brake shoes/pads may be worn (they can be replaced/replaced with new parts)
– If the mechanics are not working properly (for example, if part of the springs / guides are corroded), repair can usually be done
Cleaning certain parts is often enough
Alternatively, individual components can be replaced
– Finally, the basic adjustment of the parking brake must be done
The brake system must also be bled
- Drum brake labor costs with brake shoe/lining wear
– Change must be made on axle by axle (materials cost about 30 to 100 euros for 4 brake pads including bushings)
– manufacturers of spare parts, for example, ATE or Textar
Workload about 1 to 1 1/2 hours
- Cost of work on drum brakes in case of wear / failure of drum brakes
– Individual components can often be made workable again
– New drum brake kit with all pistons, brake clips, levers, springs and wheel brake cylinders costs around 100 to 300 euros
Plus a workload of about 1 to 1 1/2 hours
The following note is necessary: For safety reasons, tuningblog recommends all repair, inspection and maintenance work exclusive In a specialized workshop! Although our information is summarized to the best of our knowledge and belief, we cannot take any responsibility for the content. So all information is “without warranty”.
Of course that was far from that!
In this Tuning Blog category are guides and instructions for common vehicle defects/repairs and for mounting accessories/tuning parts. Our articles explain in a simple way common defects and their corresponding repairs, as well as explain how the first signs of a defect become noticeable. In most cases, we also have preliminary guides for repair instructions in our repair instructions approximate Pending repair costs are listed. The goal of our subcategoryAuto Repair Manual“It is to create a knowledge launch for the next visit to the workshop with the initial advice. This may save you from tedious troubleshooting and small things can be done directly on your own. The same of course applies to the installation of accessories / tuning of parts. Here too, we would like to help with the implementation through the instructions and tips.There are many other posts about this as well.The following is an excerpt from the latter and here are all the previous instructables:
“tuningblog.eu” – we keep you updated on the topic of auto tuning and car styling with our tuning magazine and present you every day the latest tuning cars from all over the world. You better subscribe to our feed and you will be automatically notified as soon as there is something new about this post, and of course about all the other posts as well.